Operations Manual

Adequate knowledge of pool cooler maintenance and control is necessary for optimum safe performance over time. In this manual, equipment, function, operation, and checking procedures will be described as follows:

CAUTION DURING OPERATION

Always keep your hands and any foreign objects away from the fan motor and assembly.

The cooling performance of the system is influenced by the volume of circulating water, so it is essential to maintain proper water flow at all times.

Ensure the interior of the cooler is kept clean, and regularly check that no scale, calcium, salt, or debris accumulates.

When the water level in the basin drops, air can be drawn in, leading to cavitation. Therefore, it is crucial to keep the water at the appropriate level continuously. The water level should rise and fall in accordance with the pump’s operation. DO NOT attempt to manually adjust the water level, as this could cause the basin to become completely dry, which will prevent water from reaching your pool pump and may ultimately damage it.

WARRANTY INFORMATION

The Glacier Pool Cooler is sold with a limited factory warranty. A copy of the warranty is included in a plastic bag inside the cooler and on the back cover of this manual. The warranty does not cover damage caused by improper installation, operation, or field modification, or damage caused by corrosive water. See the section on pool water chemistry and salt water pool disclaimer for guidelines.

Glacier Pool Coolers warrants all parts to be free from manufacturing defects in materials and

workmanship for a period of two years from the date of retail purchase, with the following exceptions:

• Residential & Commercial models will be covered for two years
• Register your unit by going to glacierpoolcoolers.com

1. FIRST STEP – Add a 2″ PVC T- Fitting right after the Filter with a 2″ pipe going to the pool return side: ADD bybass pipe to the inlet (left hole) of the cooler. Next, ADD a 2″ Ball valve (#3). Next, ADD a Check valve on this line, then ADD 2″ Ball valve (#1) before the inlet. Connect the Ball valve to a 2″ x 11/2″ coupler reducer fitting to a 1 1/2″ male nipple going to the inlet (input) to the cooler (connect and glue all parts). Use 2″ pipe. Must ADD 2″ x 11/2″ coupler reducer fitting after ball valve, going into cooler if using 2″ pipe on install on ALL residential models. Check on Diag. for placement of ball valves (#1- 4)

2. SECOND STEP – ADD another 11/2″ male nipple fitting at the right outlet hole (output), then ADD and connect your 2″ Ball valve (#2). ADD your pipeline out of the cooler. Next, ADD a 2″ Ball valve (#4) down Last, ADD a 2lb. Check valve on this line down (close to the T-Fitting at the pool pump, place it vertically upright) at the equipment set-up. Then, ADD a PVC T- Fitting right in front of the pool pump suction side to connect this line at the pump. Not on skimmer lines.

3. THIRD STEP – ADD 1″ plug in the top hole on the left side of the basin. ADD 1″ threaded fitting, then a 1″ Ball valve at the bottom lower outlet.

4. FOURTH STEP- ELECTRICAL The pool cooler is 110V and can work with the pool pump Pull ll0V from the 220V breaker. The minimum amperage needed is 20 amp breaker to operate the pool cooler with the pool pump. Electrical installation on a retrofit Cooler 220v timeclock/panel. The cooler is 110v, and pool systems operate@ 220v, therefore take the hot leg from the cooler and run it to either load on the 220v timeclock/panel. The ground ties into the grounding lug on the bottom of the timeclock/panel. The Neutral wire needs to be run either to the ground or to the open makes the sump live/hot all the time with the pool pumps power. Run a second 110 leg to the switch in the box to turn the fan on/off by the switch only. Run an extra piece of ground wire to the open terminal (far left, and a little offset)if you decide to use the extra terminal for the ground wire, which is preferred.** If there is a GFCI on the panel, connect the ground from the cooler to the ground on the GFCI.** Electrical installation using Pentair, Aqualink, or Hayward system. Installation of a Glacier Cooler on a Pentair, Jandy, Hayward, or a Compool is virtually the same. First, find the primary filter pump that will be feeding the cooler. The relay has 4 screws, 2 lines, and 2 loads as follows from left to right…. Linel Loadl Line2 Load2. Use one of the Loads asyour HOT for the Cooler, either one, but only one. You will need an available relay or add another if space is available. Take the cooler relay (line) and wire it to either of the filter pump loads; this will keep the cooler from running without the filter pump. Ground and Neutral tie into the Grounding terminal. Each relay has a plug that must be plugged into an open Aux female socket to allow control through the automated system.

This product should be installed and serviced by authorized personnel, qualified in pool equipment installation. Improper installation and/or operation could cause serious injury or property damage. Improper installation and/or operation will void the warranty.

1. FIRST STEP – ADD and connect a PVC T- Fitting with a 2 or 3- way actuator automated valve right after the Filter or Heater line to the pool return side, then ADD bybass pipe line to the Next, ADD a 2″ Ball valve before the inlet. Next, connect this to a 2″ x 11/2″ coupler reducer fitting to a 11/2″ nipple or male adapter going to the left inlet hole (input) to the cooler (connect and glue all parts). Use 2″ pipe.(Must ADD 2″ to 11/2″ coupler reducer fitting after ball valve, going into cooler using 2″ pipe on installs on ALL residential models). DO NOT USE 11/2″ PIPE.

2. SECOND STEP – ADD another 11/2″ nipple or male adapter at the right outlet hole, (output) then ADD reducer (same as above) and connect your 2″ Ball Valve. Next, ADD your pipeline out of the cooler. Then, ADD a PVC T- Fitting with 2 or 3-way actuator, automated valve right in front of the suction side of the pump. Not on Skimmer lines. Be sure the T Fitting is in a vertical position.

3. THIRD STEP – ADD 1″ plug in the top hole on the left side of the ADD 1″ threaded fitting, then a 1″ Ball valve at the bottom, lower outlet.

4. FOURTH STEP – ELECTRICAL The Glacier Pool Cooler is 110V adaptable and can be automated with ALL systems. Installation of a Glacier Cooler on a Pentair, Jandy, Hayward is virtually the You need an openAux relay to make it work. First, find an open relay to give power to the cooler. The relay has 4 screws, 2 lines and 2 loads as follows from left to right………….. Linel Loadl Line2 Load2. Use one of the Loads as your HOT for the Cooler. Tie the actuators’ wires together and connect the actuator relay to the assigned port to the cooler Aux relay.( Newer panels have extra relay ports for the actuators for the assigned cooler Auxiliary port), This turns on and opens the automated valves, and at the same time, it activates the power to the pool cooler. Ground and Neutral tie into the Grounding terminal.** If there isa GFCI on the panel, connect the ground from the cooler to the ground on the GFCI ** *

Fill water in both input and output lines before you turn the cooler on.* ( Failure to do so will cause air in the lines and cause cavitation of the pool pump). The relay has a port that must be plugged into an open Aux female socket to allow control through the automated system. (Factory recommends one actuator per valve actuator control).

Allow the actuators to open 100% for the water flow rate to the cooler. Do not pre-set the actuators. Only set the ball valves at the cooler to 10 – 15% percent open for the flow rate into the cooler. Settings are variable. ( On the speed on the wands, if the water is not splattering out the top fan guard with the wands still moving and not stopped, this is the right setting) These ball valves settings are permanent.

This product should be installed and serviced by authorized personnel, qualified in pool equipment installation. Improper installation and/or operation could cause serious injury or property damage. Improper installation and/or operation will void the warranty.

 

1. FIRST STEP – ADD a PVC T- Fitting right after the final Heater return/ or Filter return to the pool, then ADD your PVC line bypass to the cooler. Next, ADD a 2lb. Check valve and NEXT, a 2″ Ball valve on this line going to the (left) inlet hole to the cooler. ADD a 2″ x 11/2″ Coupling reducer fitting after Ball valve to a 11/2″ nipple or male adapter into the inlet. (connect and glue all parts). Use 2″ pipe.

2. SECOND STEP – Then connect and glue your 11/2″ inch Nipple PVC going out of cooler, then ADD a 2″ coupling reducer to your 2″ inch pipe dedicated line back to the pool. (This must be a designated line to the bottom center of the pool). NOT ON THE SIDE WALLS.

3. THIRD STEP – ADD 1″ Plug in the top hole on the left side of bottom ADD 1″ Ball valve (fitted) at the bottom of the lower outlet drain.

4. FOURTH STEP – ELECTRICAL The pool cooler works with the pool pump power. The minimum amperage needed is a 20-amp breaker to operate the pool cooler with the pool pump.** If there is a GFCI on the panel, connect the ground from the cooler to the ground to the panel.** Electrical installation on a 220v Timeclock/Panel. The cooler is 110v, and pool systems operate@ 220v. Take the hot leg from the cooler and run it to either load on the 220v Timeclock/Panel. The ground ties into the grounding lug on the bottom of the time clock. The Neutral wire needs to be run either to the ground or to the open screw on the far left of the terminal. Run a hot leg to the sump pump. This makes the sump live/hot all the time with the pool pumps power. Run an extra piece of ground wire to the open terminal (far left, and a little offset)if you decide to use the extra terminal for the ground wire, which is preferred.** If there is a GFCI on the panel, connect the ground from the cooler to the ground on the GFCI ** Electrical installation using a Pentair, Aqualink, or Hayward system. Installation of a Glacier Cooler on a Pentair, Jandy, Hayward or a Compool is virtually the same. First, find the primary filter pump that will be feeding the cooler. The relay has 4 screws 2 lines and 2 loads as follows from left to right…. Linel Loadl Line2 Load2. Use one of the Loads as your HOT for the Cooler, either one, but only one, you will need an available relay or add another if space is available. Take the cooler relay (line) and wire it to either of the filter pump loads, this will keep the cooler from running without the filter pump. Ground and Neutral tie into the Grounding terminal. Each relay has a plug that must be plugged into an open Aux female socket to allow control through the automated system. When using actuators, you will need (Factory recommends one actuator per valve actuator control). There are many different ways to electrically install a Glacier Cooler, depending on the needs of your customers. Go to page 3 Operating the Cooler to set valve settings.

This product should be installed and serviced by authorized personnel, qualified in pool equipment installation. Improper installation and/or operation could cause serious injury or property damage. Improper installation and/or operation will void the warranty.

1. FIRST STEP – ADD to an Automated Actuator Valve PVC T- Fitting right after the final Heater return/ or Filter return to the pool. Then ADD your bypass line to the cooler. Then ADD a 2″ ball valve on this line going to the (left) inlet hole to the cooler (connect and glue all parts). Use 2″ pipe on all residential models (Must ADD 2″ x 11/2″ Coupling Reducer after male nipple or adapter 11/2″ size into inlet and outlet on all residential models).

2. SECOND STEP – Then connect and glue your 11/2″ inch Nipple PVC going out of the cooler, then ADD a 2″ coupling reducer to your 2″ inch pipe dedicated line back to the pool. (This must be a designated line to the bottom center of the pool). NOT ON THE SIDE WALLS.

3. THIRD STEP – ADD 1″ Plug in the top hole on the left side of the bottom ADD 1″ Ball valve (fitted) at the bottom, lower outlet drain.

4. FOURTH STEP – ELECTRICAL The Glacier Pool Cooler is adaptable and can be automated with ALL systems. Installation of a Glacier Cooler on a Pentair, Jandy, Hayward or a Compool is virtually the same. You need one open relay to make it work. First, find an open relay that will be feeding the cooler and the inlet automated valve together on this relay. The relay has 4 screws 2 lines and 2 loads as follows from left to right   Linel Loadl Line2 Load2. Use one of the Loads as your HOT for the Cooler and the other load 2 for the actuator. This turns on and opens the automated valve and at the same time, it activates the power to the pool cooler. Ground and Neutral tie into the Grounding terminal.** If there is a GFCI on the panel, connect the ground from the cooler to the ground on the GFCI ** The relay has a plug that must be plugged into an open Aux female socket to allow control through the automated system. When using actuators, (Factory recommends one actuator per valve actuator control). Do not pre- set the actuator. Allow the actuator to open 100% for the water flow rate to the cooler and the pool. ONLY set the ball valve at the cooler to 10 -15% percent open for the flow rate into the cooler. ( The set point is as long as the wands are not spinning too fast splattering the water out the top fan guard and they are not stopped). Wands must move to cool the water. This ball valve setting is permanent.

This product should be installed and serviced by authorized personnel, qualified in pool equipment installation. Improper installation and/or operation could cause serious injury or property damage. Improper installation and/or operation will void the warranty.

Clean Basin

Make sure the cooler is in the off position. Close the drain at the bottom of the water basin. Add pool water or hose and fill thebottom basin halfway. Open the lower drain and remove the dirt and debris with your hands or a broom in and around the suction holes at the base of the sump pump (Important to clear debris out of the pump holes at the bottom base for the pump to operate.) Allow the debris to drain out. Repeat as needed to completely remove dirt and debris until the basin is clean. Close the drain for the start of operation.

Clean Fan Guard

Clean leaves, pine needles, and any other debris from the top of the cooler on or around the fan guard.

Check Inside

Remove the hand hole cover and inspect the interior of the cooler. Remove any debris from the top of the PVC filling by reaching through the hand hole cover. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE COOLER IS COMPLETELY TURNED OFF BEFORE REACHING INSIDE THE UNIT! NEVER PLACE HAND INSIDE THE UNIT WHEN THE FAN MOTOR IS ON!

Pool Water Chemistry

Failure to maintain pool water chemistry can result in rusting, corrosion, or scaling buildup on your pool cooler. The proper chemical balance in your pool water should be the following:

pH level between 7.2 and 7.8

Total Alkalinity (TA) between 80-120 ppm Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) less than 2000 Salt Water Pools *

Understand that salt is a corrosive mineral. Salt likes to remove ions and can take

zinc away from galvanized steel, and this type of chlorine is five times harder on pool equipment than regular chlorine. As such, use of a salt system may lead to the deterioration of certain materials if salt levels exceed the manufacturer’s limits. Steps should be taken to protect your pool cooler and keep it in good working order for many years. Our units are made of reinforced fiberglass, with galvanized steel components.

THE HOMEOWNER OR OPERATOR MUST HOSE DOWN WITH FRESH WATER REGULARLY ON THE FAN MOTOR SHAFT AND FAN MOTOR HOUSING, AS WELL AS THE SPRINKLER HEAD ASSEMBLY, LOCATED THROUGH THE FAN GUARD ( THIS IS THE CENTER PIECE CONNECTING THE SPRINKLER WANDS). FAILURE TO DO SO WILL CAUSE SALT RESIDUE BUILDUP AND WILL FREEZE UP THESE PARTS AND CAUSE DAMAGE.

Keep these parts cleaned with fresh water regularly to reduce salt buildup and rusting (from the fan motor housing and shaft to the exterior visible nuts and bolts). As with all pool equipment, there should be some expectation of cosmetic effects from the corrosiveness of salt water. These cosmetic effects will not hinder the operation of the pool cooler. Glacier Pool Coolers, however, does not warranty fan motors or pumps on salt water pools due to salt corrosion or buildup. All remaining parts are fully warranted according to our limited factory warranty.

FAN MOTOR MAINTENANCE

Homeowner and/or operator needs to annually spray the fan motor casing with Rustoleum Paint (color to match) to maintain the fan motor from rusting and/or corroding. This will keep the fan motor from rusting and keep it operating for years to come.

& CAUTION

Keep all objects off the top of the cooler and do not obstruct louver openings on the cooler sides. Blocking the ventilation air flow may damage the cooler and void your warranty.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

All Glacier Pool Coolers models require correct installation to assure safe and satisfactory operation. The requirements for pool coolers include the following:

1. Appropriate site location and Cooler must be installed at least 12 inches away from buildings, walls, or fences made from materials that could degrade from water exposure. Our Coolers are open systems that may experience some water misting.
2. Sufficient supply of clean air and ventilation around and above the unit. A minimum of a 5-foot Clearance above the unit is necessary to avoid condensation on the structure
3. Adequate water flow is required by your existing pool
4. Do not locate the pool cooler in an enclosed room (i.e., maintenance room, garage, utility room, equipment room). Coolers need ambient airflow to
5. SEE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS DIAGRAMS FOR APPROPRIATE

& WARNING

When pool equipment is located below the pool surface, a leak from any component can cause large-scale water loss or flooding. Installation MUST have automated valves. Glacier Pool Coolers cannot be responsible for such water loss, flooding, or resulting damage.

AUTOMATING TEMPERATURE CONTROLS FOR GLACIER POOL COOLER SYSTEMS FOR: PENTAIR INTELLICENTER, INTELLI TOUCH, EZ TOUCH CONTROL SYSTEMS JANDY AQUALINK RS, PDA POOL AND SPA SYSTEMS

HAYWARD OMNIHUB, OMNIPL AND OMNILOGIC SMART POOL SYSTEMS

You need the PENTAIR, JANDY, HAYWARD solar sensor and relay for the designated control system. Check with your distributor for the sensors and relay part numbers for each PENTAIR, JANDY and HAYWARD control system.

Programing and wiring.

• Connect solar sensor to
• Enable solar, set as heat
• Enable cooling on heat
• Set the set points for the heat pump
• Chiller unit should be energized from
• Relay should be wired to solar port on motherboard

To program set point temperature on the panel: menu> Heat> Pool> Srce

This programming will set up the pool cooler to turn on and off at the temperature set point.

The next step, go to the pool cooler electrical box, disconnect the sump pump wires from the toggle switch. Leave the fan motor wires connected to the switch. Run a separate 110V line to the sump pump to make it hot and have power to it from the panel from any llOV relay port. ( The pump float switch turns the pump on and off). This allows the water to constantly flow and cycle through the system while the cooler is still in chiller mode. ( If there is a variable speed pump, run the RPM’s at HIGH speed in chiller mode). Last, run the 110V line to the chiller switch from the panel relay for the chiller to run the fan. This will allow the fan to turn on and off at temperature settings programmed during chiller mode. Check with each manufactures operations manual for wiring and programming details for each model system. Each manufacturers operation manual differs for each model in procedures and guidelines. The guidelines stated above are general steps and may not work in some model systems. There may be modifications in additional steps and programming procedures for each different control systems. Check with your PENTAIR, JANDY and HAYWARD representative for further assistance.

DISCLAIMER

Glacier does not warrant and have any affiliation with PENTAIR, JANDY and HAYWARD companies. Glacier is not responsible for any damage to PENTAIR, JANDY and HAYWARD products by damage, includes but not limited to ( fire, property damage, panel and/or remote controls, or any other on site pool equipment etc..) by the installation to Glacier Pool Cooler, llc systems.

EXCESS WATER SPLATTER IS COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE COOLER

If water droplets are splattering out the top of the cooler, you need to slow your sprinkler wands’ spinning down. In order to do this, simply restrict the flow of water coming into the unit by slowly turning the ball valve back on the Inlet line. The wands should be turning at a slower “medium” rate of speed. As a rule of thumb, both the Inlet and Outlet valves should be positioned at about the 2 o’clock position. Refer to page 2. Start-up to Operate the cooler

EXCESS WATER SPLATTER COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE COOLER

To stop the water splatter coming out from the screen areas, first take by hand, either unscrew or pull the pins out for each screen. Then remove each screen from its groove. Then, put each screen back, but make sure the screen holes are facing downward. (This position is when you place the screen back in their support grooves, the holes are facing downward, where you cannot see inside the bottom basin.) Then, once they are in, pull them outward with your fingers, slightly bringing them bowed out to the lip of the basin. Then put the pins back in. This will allow the splattering water to hit the screens and roll down the screens into the lip and basin.

MY POOL IS NOT COOLING. MY POOL COOLER ONLY DROPPED MY POOL DOWN 5 DEGREES.

If your pool plumbing configuration by the pool pump has a main drain and two skimmer lines entering the pump, then you have to first shut off the farthest line valve completely. Then close the next farthest line valve halfway and leave the closest line valve that has the cooler cold water line connected to it wide open. This will allow the pool pump to pull and siphon the cold water into the pump first, allowing the pool to get the chilled water into the pool. ( By closing off these valves, you are not hurting the cleaning process for the pool and still allowing the pool in-floor pop-ups to operate.) If a desirable drop in degrees is not established within an 8-12 hour period, there may need to be some use adjustments. Always make sure that the sprinkler wands are turning at a slower or “medium” rate of speed. You must run the cooler at night when the sun is off the pool to get the heat out of the pool. The initial drop in temperature should be expected overnight. If the sun warms the pool back up by afternoon, just turn the system on to keep your pool refreshing. Please be reminded that all pools are different and your pool’s finish (i.e., dark bottom, pebble bottom), location (in the sun all day), and equipment location (over 15 ft. run from equipment to pool), among other variables, can cause different cooling results. It may take some time to figure out what settings suit your preferences. You might need to run the cooler for a longer period of time. If the pool is still not cooling, contact tech support for further assistance.

IS THE WATER SUPPOSED TO FILL UP IN THE BASIN AND THEN DRAIN EVERY FEW MINUTES?

Yes. The cooler is designed so that the cool water collects in the basin, and the internal pump system kicks on and pushes the water back into your pool. You should never try to balance the water flow, as this will eventually cause cavitation in your pool pressure. DO NOT TRY TO BALANCE TO WATER LEVEL IN YOUR COOLER’S BASIN! THE LEVEL IS SUPPOSED TO GO UP AND DOWN.

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO WINTERIZE MY COOLER?

In manual setup, you must keep your #3 and #4 valves closed and your main drain ball valve (the bottom left valve) open so the system is drained and will stay empty from rainwater. If water stays in the basin over the off-season, it could potentially burn up your pump. You may also want to purchase a cover or tarp to keep any leaves or debris out of the fan area and base, especially if the cooler is under or around trees or bushes. Upon start-up at the beginning of the summer season, make sure the unit is clear of debris, especially around the pump. A good hose down should do the trick.

SUMP PUMP IS NOT WORKING

The sump pump float switch is the power switch to the pump. If the float switch is stuck and does not activate the pump, pull one side louver out and reach into the basin, and see if you can manually move the float switch up to activate the pump. If the pump vibrates, there is power to it. If the water level still does not reduce in the basin, then there may be some debris stuck in the impeller, which is located at the bottom of the pump. Cleaning this out should solve that problem. If the float switch goes up and there is no vibration, the wiring configuration and/or power to the pump should be looked at. ALL POOL COOLERS ARE TURNED ON AND TESTED IN THE FACTORY PRIOR TO SHIPPING.

SPRINKLER WANDS ARE STUCK AND ARE NOT SPINNING

Make sure all power is turned off to the unit. Take the hand hole cover off on the side panel of your cooler. DANGER!!! MAKE SURE YOUR FAN MOTOR IS NOT RUNNING! First, make sure each sprinkler pipe hole is facing completely to the right (horizontally), not facing up or down. Reach into the hand hole on the side panel and, by hand, turn each pipe counterclockwise to the horizontal position facing right. Make sure your pool pump is fully primed for full water pressure. Then open your inlet valve to the set point, and water should be flowing and spinning the pipes. Our units require pressure to allow the wands to spin. You may need to increase water flow by opening the inlet valve to the cooler to make the wands spin. If your wands are hitting the inside panel(s) and/or getting stuck by hitting a panel, open the hand hole cover and unscrew counterclockwise each pipe. Remove the pipes from the cooler and remove the plastic nut on the ends of each pipe. (These nuts are extra for tightening the pipe’s positions) Not needed for operating. Removing the nuts will give an extra¼ inch space for clearing the wall. Then, put each pipe back in the holes on the sprinkler head in the center. Make sure each pipe’s holes are facing directly to the right (horizontally). Then spin the pipes, and it should be free. If still not free, contact tech support for further assistance.

COOLER IS OVERFLOWING

Immediately shut the valves Inlet and Outlet of the cooler. Check to make sure that there is power to the pump. Follow instructions above for sump pump troubleshooting. Refer to page 2.

CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE OF MY POOL

Our residential coolers do not come with thermostat controls. Cooling is determined by the run time of your pool pump. If it’s too cold, cut back your hours. If it’s not cool enough, run your pump longer. Now, if your pool is automated, our pool cooler can integrate into your system, and a temperature range can be set through your automated system. Check our automation on the panel page.

SPRINKLER PIPES REVOLUTION SPEED TABLE

MODEL: GPC-25 TO GPC-230

RPM:             7-12

GPC-240 TO GPC-2100

5-8

YOU MAY ALSO CONTACT OUR TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENT BY EMAILING ADMIN@GLACIERPOOLCOOLERS.COM OR CALLING 480-272-7700.

BASIC PARTS LIST FOR INSTALLATION

 

QTY	EXISTING POOL
2	2″2LB.CHECKVALVES
2	2″T-FITTINGS
2	2″ TO 1.5″ COUPLER REDUCER
10	90 DEGREE ELBOWS
2	1.5″ Male Adapters (Threaded) Or Nipples
2	2″ BALL VALVES- STANDARD
1	1″ MALE ADAPTER (THREADED) OR NIPPLES
1	1″ PLUG (THREADED) OR 3/4″ PLUG (GPC-25 ONLY)
12″	1″ PVCPIPE
20′	2″ PVC PIPE (EST. FT)
1	1″ BALL VALVE- STANDARD

 

QTY	NEW POOL
2	2″2LB.CHECKVALVES
2	2″T-FITTINGS
2	2″ TO 1.5″ COUPLER REDUCER
5	90 DEGREE ELBOWS
2	1.5″ Male Adapters (Threaded) Or Nipples
1	2″ BALL VALVES- STANDARD
1	1″ MALE ADAPTER (THREADED) OR NIPPLES
1	1″ PLUG (THREADED) OR 3/4″ PLUG (GPC-25 ONLY)
12″	1″ PVCPIPE
20′	2″ PVC PIPE (EST. FT)
1	1″ BALL VALVE- STANDARD

ELECTRICAL

 

 

QTY	EXISTING AND NEW POOL
2	5SE”AL TIGHT CONDUIT
2	.5″ Conduit Connectiors (Water TIGHT)
2	Gauge Wire – 3 Colors

 

QTY	EXISTING POOL
2	3-Way Automated Actuator Valves

 

QTY	NEW POOL
1	3-Way Automated Actuator Valves

**ADDITIONAL PARTS MAY BE NEEDED FOR AUTOMATED SYSTEMS**

SEE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS FOR MANUAL EXISTING AND NEW POOL SETUPS. AUTOMATION INSTRUCTIONS ARE LOCATED ON SEPARATE PAGES.

ELECTRICAL POWER

WIRING

All GPC-25 through GPC-220 models are single phase and require electrical: 8 AMPS -115V/ 50 / 60 Hz All GPC-230 through GPC-2100 models electrical: 3 PH – 220/480V/60 Hz AMPS 1.5 – 4.0

See installation diagrams for wiring instructions.

&  WARNING

ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD. Residential Pool Coolers contain low-voltage wiring. Commercial Pool Coolers contain high-voltage wiring. Contact with these wires may result in severe injury or death. Wiring errors can lead to improper and hazardous operation.

WIRING DIAGRAM FOR RESIDENTIAL MODELS

 ** First – Follow and complete steps 1- 3 on NON-AUTOMATION EXISTING POOL INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS for input and output ball valve settings**

Turn the pool cooler on.

Let the automated actuator turn on (all the way open) the T-fitting on the inlet side of the cooler open to let water into the unit.

Let the pool cooler sump pump turn on and start draining the basin to fill the output line with water.

Then open the actuator on the suction side to let the water into the pump to prevent cavitation. Make sure you do not set the actuators. Let them open and close all the way to operate the cooler on and off. The ball valves at the unit(# 1 & # 2) are set at their positions permanently. The pool owner never touches the valves at the unit.

NOTE: Variable Speed Pumps – If you have a variable speed pump, you have to set the pump speed on high and run the unit during nighttime hours on this speed to cool. Once the variable speed RPMs change to low, the unit sprinkler pipes will not spin, and the unit will not be cooling. The cooler relies on the flow rate from the pump at high speed.

IMPORTANT: OPERATE AND RUN YOUR POOL COOLER OVERNIGHT FOR MAXIMUM COOLING EFFICIENCY. A MINIMUM OF 10 TO 12 HOURS IS REQUIRED. OPERATING POOL COOLER DURING DAYTIME HOURS WILL NOT DROP THE POOL WATER TEMPERATURES. IT WILL ONLY MAINTAIN DEGREES. THE HEAT FROM THE SUN AND DAYTIME TEMPERATURES WILL OVER POWER THE CHILLING PROCESS. 

TURNING THE COOLER OFF

MANUAL OPERATION EXISTING AND NEW POOL INSTALL

Turn the power off to the cooler. Turn the fan switch and pool pump to the OFF position. Close the ball valve (#3) and ball valve (#4). These are the open and close valves for turning the water flow on and off to the cooler. Open the far lower left main drain line.

AUTOMATED OPERATION EXISTING AND NEW POOL INSTALL

Turn the power off to the cooler from your PDA remote, phone, and any other device for operating your pool system’s panel. Scroll down to the chiller/cooler mode to the off setting.

**THE COOLER SHOULD BE LEFT IN THIS POSITION WHEN NOT IN USE. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN THE BURNING UP OF THE POOL PUMP SYSTEM.**

During summer months of operation, you DO NOT have to open and close valves #3 and #4 after every chilling cycle if you have a NON-AUTOMATED setup. Your check valves in line will hold the water in the pool coolers’ basin and will allow your pool pump to turn on, re-cycle, and prime itself for the next day use. The pool cooler will keep cycling the pool water back through to the pool.

TO WINTERIZE YOUR POOL COOLER, PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE FOR TURNING OFF THE

POOL COOLER.

1.WHY IS THERE SPLATTER COMING OUT OF THE TOP OF MY COOLER?

If there are water droplets splattering out the top of the cooler, you need to slow your sprinkler wands down. In order to do this, simply restrict the flow of water coming into the unit by slowly turning the ball valve back on the IN line. The wands should be turning at a slower “walking” rate of speed. As a rule of thumb, both the IN and OUT valves should be positioned at about the 2 o’clock position.

2.MY COOLER ONLY DROPPED MY POOL DOWN BY 5 IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG?

If a desirable drop in degrees is not established within an 8-12 hour period, there may need to be some use adjustments. Always make sure that the sprinkler wands are turning at a slower or “walking” rate of speed. It is recommended that the cooler run at night when the sun is off the pool. An initial drop in temperature should be expected overnight. If the sun warms the pool back up by afternoon, just turn the system on to keep your pool refreshing.*

3.IS THE WATER SUPPOSED TO FILL UP IN THE BASIN AND THEN DRAIN EVERY FEW MINUTES?

Yes. The cooler is designed so that the cool water collects in the basin, and the internal pump system kicks on and pushes the water back into your pool. You should never try to balance the water flow, as this will eventually cause cavitation in your pool pressure.

4.IS THE POOL COOLER LOUD?

The cooler has about the same noise level as your pool pump.

5.HOW MUCH ELECTRICITY DOES THE POOL COOLER USE?

Our residential models are extremely energy efficient. They average 5.5 amps (amperage) when in use.

6.SHOULD I OVERSIZE MY COOLER TO GET MORE COOLING?

No. Our line of pool coolers has been designed to accommodate specific pool sizes, as shown on the specs. You will not see an increase in cooling by putting a larger cooler on a smaller pool.

7.DO THE COOLERS WORK IN HIGH HUMIDITY AREAS?

Yes. Glacier Pool Coolers work efficiently in all regions. All of our usage and sizing data are based on research and development in Houston, TX, and the Gulf Coast region. Our coolers take the heat from the water regardless of humidity or air temperature.

8.CAN I INSTALL THE COOLER MYSELF?

We strongly recommend that an authorized and qualified pool equipment professional do your installation. Improper installation/operation will void your warranty.

9.WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO WINTERIZE MY COOLER?

You must keep your IN and OUT valves closed and your main drain ball valve (the bottom left valve) open so the system is drained and will stay empty from rainwater. If water stays in the basin over the off-season, it could potentially burn up your pump. You may also want to purchase a cover or tarp to keep any leaves or debris out of the fan area and basin, especially if the cooler is under or around trees or bushes. Upon start-up at the beginning of the summer season, make sure the unit is clear of debris, especially around the pump. A good hose down should do the trick.

10.WILL THE POOL COOLER WORK WITH A SALT-WATER POOL?

Yes. Our units are made of reinforced fiberglass, with stainless steel components. You can not harm the unit with salt residue; however, extra care to maintain the cooler on your salt pool is necessary. Keep the cooler hosed down regularly to reduce salt buildup and rusting. As with all pool equipment, there should be some expectation of cosmetic effects from the corrosiveness of salt water. These cosmetic effects should not hinder the operation of the pool cooler.

11.HOW DO I CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE OF MY POOL?

Our residential coolers do not come with thermostat controls. Cooling is determined by the run time of your pool pump. If it’s too cold, cut back your hours. If it’s not cool enough, run your pump longer. Now, if your pool is automated, our pool cooler can integrate into your system, and a temperature range can be set through your automated system.

Thank you for purchasing your Glacier Pool Cooler product. Glacier Pool Coolers, LLC warrants all parts to be free from manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of two years from the date of retail purchase.

This warranty is limited to the first retail purchaser, is not transferable, and does not apply to products that have been moved from their original installation sites. The liability of Glacier Pool Coolers, LLC shall not exceed the repair or replacement of defective parts and does not include any costs for labor to remove and reinstall the defective part, transportation to or from the factory, and any other materials required to make the repair. This warranty does not cover failures or malfunctions resulting from the following:

• Failure to properly install, operate or maintain the product(s) in accordance with our published Installation and Operation Manual provided with the product(s).
• The workmanship of any installer of the product(s).
• Not maintaining a proper chemical balance in your pool water [pH level between 7.2 and 8, Total Alkalinity (TA) between 80 and 120 ppm, Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) less than 2000] including salt/saline pools.
• Abuse, alteration, accident, fire, flood, lightening, rodents, insects, debris, negligence, or acts of
• Scaling, freezing, or other conditions causing inadequate water
• Use of non-factory authorized parts or accessories in conjunction with the product(s).
• Chemical contamination or improper use of sanitizing
• Incorrect wire runs, improper electrical supply, power outages, power surges, collateral damage caused by improper operation and maintenance.

LIMITATION OF LIABILITY: This is the only warranty given by Glacier Pool Coolers, LLC. No one is authorized to make any other warranties on Glacier Pool Coolers, LLC behalf. THIS WARRANTY IS IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND MERCHANTABILITY. GLACIER POOL COOLERS, LLC EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS AND EXCLUDES ANY LIABILITY FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR PUNITIVE DAMAGES FOR

BREECH OF ANY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WARRANTY. This warranty gives you specific legal rights. You may also have other rights which vary by state of province.

WARRANTY CLAIMS: For prompt warranty consideration, contact your dealer and provide the following information: Proof of purchase, model number, serial number, and date of installation. The installer will contact the factory for instructions regarding the claim. If the dealer is not available, you can find an authorized service provider in your area by visiting www.glacierpoolcoolers.com or by calling our technical support department at 480.272.7700. All returned parts must have the Returned Material Authorization number to be evaluated under the terms of this warranty.